Buying a Dovetail Saw

When buying a dovetail saw you need to ensure that it has good, resharpenable steel and has a strong back. Like tenon saws, these can be brass or steel-backed, the main difference is that the steel-backed saws are lighter. You also want to make sure it has 15 PPI or more (slightly smaller teeth) and has a comfortable wooden handle. Paul likes the turned (inline) handle for cutting dovetails, as found on the gent’s saw.

The 10” 15-PPI Spear and Jackson dovetail saw (often labeled as a tenon saw) with the rosewood handle is a good value new option, although these might be harder to find secondhand they do sometimes come up on eBay. Another name to look out for secondhand is Henry Disston which also has a comfortable handle. Paul also recommends this Crown gents saw which is available is the US, a 10″ with 17 TPI.

Like with all saws, if you are not yet confident with sharpening them and you want one ready to go, Paul recommends buying a new one. Sometimes the new dovetail saws arrive over set, which will need correcting and some may also need further sharpening.

🇬🇧We purchased this from Hurst for £20.99 with £3.50 delivery.* 🇬🇧 If you are ordering from the US, we have found it on Amazon.com.

*Prices correct as of January 2019

7 comments on “Buying a Dovetail Saw

  1. Sir,
    I appreciate this new website for novices like myself. In America these saws are significantly more expensive(and very hard to get). Do you have a recommendation for new American woodworkers that are not yet confident enough to sharpen a second hand saw?
    Thank you for your time and passion.

    • Hi Jacob,

      Thanks for your comment.

      Paul recommends the Crown 10″ 17 TPI Dovetail Saw which is available from Highland Woodworking. I have now added this into our guide above.

      We are looking to add more accessible tool options for our US audience in the near future.

      Kind Regards,
      Izzy

  2. I am glad to see this saw coming up here!
    I bought two of them and both came with a strange set from the factory:
    The first 4 teeth have no set.
    The 5th is left, the 6th is right and then the 7th is in the middle (no set), 8th left, 9th middle, 10th right, 11th middle, etc….so it’s sort of a 3-teeth profile.
    To get to the left-right profile I would have to bend some teeth over, which led to some broken teeth on a robert flynn saw I used to practice on.
    Is there any way to correct the pattern “softly”
    Did you see this pattern on any saw you bought?

    Thanks for all you do!
    David

    • Hi David,

      The pattern you are describing is known as a raker tooth pattern, the straight tooth helps to remove waste from the middle of the saw kerf.

      We would recommend straightening out the teeth using 2 hammers as seen in our sharpening a saw guide. You do risk breaking some of the teeth if the saw is particularly brittle. Unfortunately you cant tell until you’ve done it.

      I hope this helps.

      Kind Regards,
      Izzy

  3. I’m a little confused here. It says Paul likes the turned handles like on the gents saws. But the other recommendations and hos latest videos show the traditional handled saws he uses. I can get the Crown Gents saw locally or order the tenon saw you post here on Amazon. Thoughts?

    • Hi Steve,

      I have passed your question on to Paul and below is his answer:

      In my view, inline handles, as in gent’s saws, are very fine saws. I like them and I use them equally and I interchange between one and the other as regularly as I remember to so people will understand that either will work.

      Kind Regards,
      Izzy

      • Great! Thanks for clarifying. That makes sense as Paul likes to make sure its accessible to everyone. Also nice that I can support the local mom and pop wood/tool store. Thanks again, Happy New Year to all there!

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