Buying a Gent’s Saw

Paul recommends the 10″ (25cm) with 15-17 PPI. There are many different names on the saw plate but only one chief maker. They usually come in different lengths, but the 10″ is the ideal length. Also, small teeth (anything over 17PPI) is just too small and the cut is nowhere near as effective. It also becomes difficult to sharpen, requiring extra slim saw files.

Paul recommends new where possible for this saw as a secondhand one will probably need restoration, reshaping of teeth and sharpening. As these are smaller toothed saws, they are more problematic to sharpen which might not be ideal for a beginner.

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  1. So, Paul and Izzy. I thought I was not going to be able to buy one but instead I bought two gent’s saw’s. A 10 and a 6 dovetailing saw and then bought a Japanese saw also. Thanks for your help. My dovetailing is getting better. Slow due to work is taking a lot of my time but I sneak in some time with my new saw’s. I also ordered a ridged dovetailing saw from Eric Florio that looks awesome but it’s out for some time. I only ordered it today. I can’t wait to get it. I love you guys and gals and friends. Thanks!

  2. Izzy or Paul,
    I bought a gents saw to cut my dovetails with which was working fine until the handle pulled off. Do you have any advice on how to fix a gents saw inline handle back on? Please! I’m desperate… (plus I’m in South Africa so it’s hard to just get a new one)…many thanks!

    1. Hi Nigel,

      Paul says:
      You have a couple of options, you could use epoxy glue down in the hole and push it in (not too much) or you can insert the spine into the hole and then drizzle in some super glue and let that set up and that will hold it. Either of those have worked for me. Usually what has happened is the hole has wallowed out or the wood has shrunk.

      Kind Regards,

  3. On the continent at least in Germany it is kind of hard to find a gent saw that matches Paul’s criteria. There is one supplier though who delivers two sorts of gent saws by the manufacturer Thomas Flinn. They differ mainly regarding their tooth Pitch:

    One is the
    Depth of cut 42 mm (1-5/8 inch)
    Blade thickness 0.5 mm (0.02 inch)
    Kerf 0.7 mm (0.028 inch)
    Pitch 15 TPI (1.7 mm)

    The other one:
    PAX Gent’s Saw Blade Length 250 mm (10 inch)
    Depth of cut 42 mm (1-5/8 inch)
    Blade thickness 0.5 mm (0.02 inch)
    Kerf 0.7 mm (0.028 inch)
    Pitch 20 TPI (1.3 mm)
    Walnut handle


    15 TPI (16 PPI) seems quite rough to me although it is within the range of what Paul suggests for a gent saw (Paul recommends 16–19 PPI.) On the other hand the other one comes with 20 TPI (21 PPI).
    As I tend generally to finer tools, my question is basically, which one should I choose? Can I resharpen 20 TPI?

    1. Hi,

      Paul says:

      These are one and the same saw with different number of teeth per distance length. The 20 tpi is too fine for self sharpening so go for the 15tpi. Easier on the eyes.


  4. I wanted to add I had never really seen a gent’s type saw until following Mr.Sellers online – what a great little saw and very handy overall. It took me a while to get the hang of using a hand saw with the inline handle but a bit of practice solved that. I did want to add there is an awesome little company in NYC that sells a 10” steel back gent’s saw (the same British company that makes several brands) with approximately 16 PPI for a very reasonable price. They also have a slightly finer tooth version but following Mr. Sellers advice, I think this standard version is fine. I am finally sharpening my own saws again after 40 over years and cannot see anything much finer than that anyhow. Keep up the good work and thanks so much for teaching us all we wished to know!

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