The combination gauge has 4 main parts, the wooden stem, the wooden stock, the setscrew and the marking pins. The stock has a lock system on it to allow it to keep the distance from the pin, this enables you to mark exactly the right location. The reason this is called a ‘combination gauge’ […]

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Buying a combination gauge is more cost effective as it essentially combines the marking and mortise gauge into one gauge. Paul recommends the type that have pins rather than discs as the discs tend to be brittle and fracture in places around the circumference. Discs are often difficult to re-sharpen and if broken can […]

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To see a video on centring the gauge, click here.
When setting a mortise gauge, one of the twin pins is moveable. Place the chisel against the fixed pin, then set the moveable pin to the width of the chisel. Position the chisel just inside the tips of the pins (refer to picture for positioning). […]

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To see a video on using the gauge, click here.
This can seem like an awkwardly shaped tool, holding the wood with one hand and the stem with the other can aid control. Press lightly but firmly when marking, the pressure should be applied against the registration face, not downwards onto the pins. You don’t […]

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[…] on the project you are working on)
Plane
Steel Rule
Winding Sticks (you can make them using this video or you can use the ‘poor mans’ version Paul uses in this guide)
Pencil
Square
Gauge

All stock must be trued before joinery to establish the registration faces required for accurate layout.

1. Sight down the wood to see if it is straight, hollowed […]

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[…] to guarantee a good fit. The majority of hinges are used in pairs and sometimes with three, very rarely do we use one hinge alone.
Equipment needed:

Hinge and screws
Screwdriver
Gauge
Chisel
Square awl
Knife
Chisel Hammer
Square

Place your wood in the vise and put the the hinge in the desired position, using the knuckle of the hinge butted up against the […]

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[…] will need:

Piece of wood- 1 ¼” (32mm) wide, ⅞” (22mm) thick, 4” (102mm) long (any straight grained, knot free, durable hardwood will work best)
Pencil
Steel Rule

Card scraper
Knife
File
Router Plane or Marking Gauge
Dovetail and Tenon saw
1″ Chisel

Make sure all your faces have been trued, to see how to do this, click here.
1. Mark 1 ½” (38mm) from each end […]

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[…] our blog ‘Woodworking without a Workbench’.

 
Tools

It is possible to make some projects with a minimal tool collection, some tools come as a combination, such as a combination gauge (a marking gauge and a mortise gauge in one).
It is important to keep organised if you have a limited area, using shelving or a trunk/tote […]

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[…] but rather bringing a surface that is close to level to a smooth and accurate final depth.
Paul Sellers sometimes uses a router plane as an improvised marking gauge. By using the same tool he is ensuring that the final depth of cut is exact, it removes the possibility of the marking gauge and router […]

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[…] right position to push the plane along the grain, to avoid tearout by going against the grain, simply turn the plane around and pull it towards you.

Temporary Gauge Lines
The marking gauge is useful when laying out, but you might not always want a permanent mark on your project. Set the stock to the required […]

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