4. Marking Out the Tenon
To mark the thickness of the tenon, take the stock of the gauge with your dominant hand and register against the face of your tenon. Start on one of the…
To mark the thickness of the tenon, take the stock of the gauge with your dominant hand and register against the face of your tenon. Start on one of the…
…for a deeper cut and go over the surface again to take off a little more. Continue in this way until you reach the gauge line, always checking along the…
…second pencil line on the other side. These are the start and stop lines for your mortise gauge to mark the width of the hole. Square a line near the…
…and continue to saw accordingly, taking controlled strokes. Keep the saw level and stop just shy of the gauge line. Finally, go back in the vice and chop down diagonally…
…and make a mark. Then, using your finger as a gauge, extend this line around the whole perimeter on both top and bottom faces, and then again on the edge…
…to avoid tearout by going against the grain, simply turn the plane around and pull it towards you. Temporary Gauge Lines The marking gauge is useful when laying out, but…
…a surface that is close to level to a smooth and accurate final depth. Paul Sellers sometimes uses a router plane as an improvised marking gauge. By using the same…
…stop line near the front). Then mark the depth using a marking gauge or router plane. You should also use a marking gauge to define the exact end of the…
…your gauge to your ½“ (13mm) chisel and your stock ½” (13mm) away from the moveable pin. Run your gauge in between the turnbutton mortise lines on all four aprons….
…the side walls and avoid tearout, use a marking gauge to pre cut the wood fibres then use a knife to deepen these gauge lines. The iron must be finely…