11. Removing the Waste – Pin Piece
Begin by creating a step down on the waste side of the knifewall. Clamp securely in the vice and pare down near the shoulder line (about 1mm away) with a…
Begin by creating a step down on the waste side of the knifewall. Clamp securely in the vice and pare down near the shoulder line (about 1mm away) with a…
…joint is cut. It can also be used for marking straight lines and checking straight edges. The tool is often used alongside other tools such as the layout knife. The…
…walls to see if you need to go with a knife to deepen a little. Whatever the case, go with a final pass of the knife when you’re done to…
…uses the width of his square for this as most square beams or steel rules are 1” wide. Square a knifewall all around and cross cut to length. Flush your…
Begin by clamping your mortise piece in the vise and using your ½” chisel to create a step down on the two knifewalls. Take your chisel with your non-dominant hand…
…Pare into the knifewall with a wide chisel before sawing the shoudlers When sawing the shoulders, cut marginally away so that you do not cut beyond the knifewalls Saw the…
…knifewall and then make a step down for your saw with a chisel. Cut the notch out using a tenon saw. Square a knifewall over the pencil line on the…
…second pass but avoid going too deep as you will put bruising on the good wood. Also trace along the front edge with the very tip of a sharp knife,…
…two registration faces to mark around your wood which will help when you need to crosscut wood to length, which requires an accurate knifewall on all faces to prevent tearout….
…hand. You can use a pencil or a woodworking knife alongside the beam to mark your lines or measurements, a pencil mark can be erased however a knife mark is…