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…you, our members, so we take all suggestions on board. If you want to suggest something, feel free to comment on this blog post and we’ll add it to our…
…you, our members, so we take all suggestions on board. If you want to suggest something, feel free to comment on this blog post and we’ll add it to our…
…only take off a little at a time using medium taps to create a continuous flat all the way up to the top face. When you’ve come down half of…
…because the dovetails can come lose. The reason this is done now (even though you may need to pare a little more off when glued up) is that the nubs…
…on the top (a relatively common mistake) Mark how far the tenons protrude with a pencil To cut the arches, use the stop cut method. Once you have made your…
Note: Some oils spontaneously combust, see Paul’s blog post here, do not use these in the rag-in-a-can-oiler. Equipment Needed: 230g can Chisel Hammer Warrington Hammer (Steel Hammer) Rag- 10 inches…
The layout for each corner follows the same patter as that for cutting a double dovetail. You can click here for a more comprehensive guide. The ‘Tails‘ On one of…
Begin by centring your box on the base and marking the position with a pencil. On the inside, just mark the four corners to guide you when you come to…
…if you have any questions and I’d be more than happy to help. You can either leave a comment or use our contact form. Izzy Research and Content Creator for Common Woodworking…
…all 4 sides (does not include the end. If you were to make a common tenon flush to the top, it would only have enclosure on 3 sides). The small…
Cut a 1″ (25mm) tenon as you would a regular tenon. (See our Mortise and Tenon course for a more comprehensive guide). You can use the beam of your square…