Laying Out the Mortises
…and make sure all markings are clear. Set a mortise/combination gauge to a ½“ (13mm) chisel. Then slide the stock so that the pin closest to it is aligned with…
…and make sure all markings are clear. Set a mortise/combination gauge to a ½“ (13mm) chisel. Then slide the stock so that the pin closest to it is aligned with…
…the joint lies. As for the patterns for chopping the mortise, remember that the bevel of the chisel should always face the direction you’re moving in, except when you come…
…all comes together neatly with no discrepancies that may need correcting. You will do this once more later before gluing up. It is important to note here that, due to…
…on the outcut. This is quite common, and can be easily remedied when rounding over the front, long-grain edges. Start with the ends of the top and bottom pieces Ensure…
…by holding the combination square against the edge you are spokeshaving. If it is not flat across the full width of the surface you will need to focus more on…
…housing dado, we make a stopped housing which comes to a given distance from the front, and then cut a corresponding notch from the front of the shelf. This results…
…would with a common housing dado, until you are near to depth. Go to your benchtop and begin to take even ‘rows’ of chops with a wide chisel Pare into…
…from the top with a sharp chisel that fits comfortably in the recess and work your way down to the bottom. Use a double handed grip on the chisel to…
Paul doesn’t consider these an essential tool, however he understands that some beginners may not feel comfortable starting with freehand sharpening. The honing guide is useful if you want to…
…planing the end grain, be sure to avoid the ends splitting by planing in halfway then coming from the other side. Place the clamp in the vise and use it…