Note: This guide is on both chisel hammers and warrington hammers. Paul recommends scraping off the varnish from the handle when you get a new wooden-handled hammer and he recommends adding 4 coats of boiled linseed oil over a few days. This finish will ensure the hammer handle keeps in great condition and lasts a long…

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To get the most from your hammer, you need to get the weight and balance ratio right. The Centre of Percussion (COP) is the optimum point on the hammer face that allows the best transfer of energy into whatever you are striking. With smaller hammers there is little you can do to take advantage of…

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Called a chisel hammer by Paul Sellers, when being sold they can be listed as a ‘nylon hammer’, ‘assembly hammer’ or even a ‘soft-faced hammer’. Paul Sellers prefers a nylon faced hammer, (31-712R Thorex Nylon Hammer) his preferred size is is a 1 ½” (38mm). The head of the hammer is made from steel which has…

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Chisel hammer is the term used by Paul Sellers to describe the hammer that he recommends for use in striking the end of the chisel handle and assembling joinery. It can be made from nylon, steel or brass. The type Paul Sellers recommends is sold as a ‘nylon hammer’, ‘assembly hammer’ or even a ‘soft-faced…

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