Cutting the Tenon
Cut a 1″ (25mm) tenon as you would a regular tenon. (See our Mortise and Tenon course for a more comprehensive guide). You can use the beam of your square…
Cut a 1″ (25mm) tenon as you would a regular tenon. (See our Mortise and Tenon course for a more comprehensive guide). You can use the beam of your square…
…the other side of the newly made mark to make another pencil line for the second wall. You can now take the end pieces out of the vise and square…
…You can use the width of a steel rule the beam of a square for this, as they are usually 1” wide. On the top ends, find the half-way point…
…are equally spaced apart. Using the centre point of your seat, square a line across the diameter. The intersection of this square line and your small circumference marks the position…
…an octagonal shape, which is closer to the ultimate circle that you’re after. Use the 45° angle on the combination square to mark four diagonal cut lines tangent to the…
…do the same for the face of the gauge and reposition. Your gauge should run along your wood smoothly with no skudding. Sharpening a Square Awl The square awl relies…
…the template. Any pointed metal object will work but a square awl allows you to ream out the start of the hole. This helps to center the auger bit when…
…on both sides, whereas the protruding wingnut doesn’t allow for this. Uses This is used in the same way as the combination square, however unlike the combination square, it can…
…the burnisher. Start out square to the edge and the start to angle the burnisher incrementally with each stroke. This both consolidates the steel into itself and forms the cutting…
…shoulder lines on the other three sides in the exact same way, always registering your square against the marked face and edge. Square the knifewall all around the four faces…